Elastan atki bağlantili çi̇ft katli dokuma üst gi̇ysi̇li̇k kumaş performansinin i̇ncelenmesi̇
Loading...
Date
2020-09-01
Authors
Bozkurt, Merve
Journal Title
Journal ISSN
Volume Title
Publisher
Bursa Uludağ Üniversitesi
Abstract
Bu çalışmada atkıda kullanılan elastan oranı ve örgü tipinin elastan atkı bağlantılı çift katlı dokuma kumaşların mekanik ve konfor özelliklerine olan etkisi deneysel olarak araştırılmıştır. Bu amaçla çözgü ipliği ve sıklıklar sabit tutularak 2, 3 ve 8 bağlantı sayısına sahip örgülerde, üç farklı elastan numarasına (20,40,70 denye) sahip puntalı iplik kullanılarak dokuz farklı çift katlı kumaş üretilmiştir. Çift katlı kumaş özelliklerini tek katlı kumaşlarla kıyaslayabilmek için aynı ipliklerle üç adet de bezayağı kumaş dokunmuştur. Numune kumaşlar aynı şartlar altında terbiye edilmiştir. Kumaşlar ham iken gramaj ve kalınlık, mamul halde iken atkı-çözgü sıklığı, gramaj, kalınlık, hava geçirgenliği, nem iletimi, su buharı geçirgenliği, ısı iletimi, kopma mukaveti, uzama, elastikiyet, aşınma, pillingleşme ve esneme testleri yapılmıştır. Sonuçlar SPSS 22 paket programında istatistiksel olarak değerlendirilmiştir. Sonuçlar incelendiğinde, elastan numarası ve bağlantı sayısının artmasının elastan atkı bağlantılı çift katlı dokuma kumaşlar üzerinde istatiksel olarak etkisinin olduğu görülmüştür. Çift katlı kumaş numunelerinde atkı ipliğinde kullanılan elastan oranı arttıkça kumaş gramajı, kalınlık, su buharı geçirgenliği direnci, termal iletkenlik ve termal direnç değerlerinin arttığı belirlenmiştir. Uzama, hava ve su buharı geçirgenliği değerlerinde ise azalma görülmüştür. Çift katlı kumaşlarda kullanılan bağlantı sayısı arttıkça kumaş gramajı, su buharı geçirgenliği değerlerinde artış görülmüştür.
In this study, the effects of elastane weft yarn count and knitting type on the physical and comfort properties of elastane weft double-layer woven fabrics for outerwear investigated experimentally. For this purpose, warp yarn and warp density are kept constant. Three different weaving structures with 2, 3, and 8 connections were used. Nine different double-layer woven fabrics were produced using intermingled yarn with three different elastane counts (20,40,70). Three plain fabrics are woven with the same yarns to compare the double layer fabric properties with single-layer fabrics. Sample fabrics were finished under the same conditions. Weight, density, and thickness properties of the dry relaxed raw fabrics were determined. Weft density, warp density, weight, thickness, air permeability, moisture conduction, water vapor permeability, heat conduction, tensile strength, percent elongation, pilling, and abrasion resistance properties of the dry relaxed finished fabrics were determined. The results were evaluated statistically in SPSS 22 package program. When the results are analyzed, it was seen that the increase in the count of elastane and the number of connections has the same effect on the double-woven fabrics. It has been determined that as the elastane used in weft yarn in double layer fabric samples thicken, the weight, thickness, water vapor permeability resistance, thermal conductivity, and thermal resistance values of the fabric will increase. There was a decrease in elongation percentage, air, and water vapor permeability values. As the number of connections used in double-layer fabrics increased, the fabric's weight and water vapor permeability increased.
In this study, the effects of elastane weft yarn count and knitting type on the physical and comfort properties of elastane weft double-layer woven fabrics for outerwear investigated experimentally. For this purpose, warp yarn and warp density are kept constant. Three different weaving structures with 2, 3, and 8 connections were used. Nine different double-layer woven fabrics were produced using intermingled yarn with three different elastane counts (20,40,70). Three plain fabrics are woven with the same yarns to compare the double layer fabric properties with single-layer fabrics. Sample fabrics were finished under the same conditions. Weight, density, and thickness properties of the dry relaxed raw fabrics were determined. Weft density, warp density, weight, thickness, air permeability, moisture conduction, water vapor permeability, heat conduction, tensile strength, percent elongation, pilling, and abrasion resistance properties of the dry relaxed finished fabrics were determined. The results were evaluated statistically in SPSS 22 package program. When the results are analyzed, it was seen that the increase in the count of elastane and the number of connections has the same effect on the double-woven fabrics. It has been determined that as the elastane used in weft yarn in double layer fabric samples thicken, the weight, thickness, water vapor permeability resistance, thermal conductivity, and thermal resistance values of the fabric will increase. There was a decrease in elongation percentage, air, and water vapor permeability values. As the number of connections used in double-layer fabrics increased, the fabric's weight and water vapor permeability increased.
Description
Keywords
Elastan, Dokuma kumaş, Giyim konforu, Streç ve kalıcı uzama, Elastane, Woven fabric, Clothing comfort, Stretch and recovery
Citation
Bozkurt, M. (2020). Elastan atki bağlantili çi̇ft katli dokuma üst gi̇ysi̇li̇k kumaş performansinin i̇ncelenmesi̇. Yayınlanmamış yüksek lisans tezi. Bursa Uludağ Üniversitesi Fen Bilimler Enstitüsü.